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About St. Lucia
A spate of resort
developments on St Lucia has made this high, green island one of
the Caribbean's trendy package-tour destinations, but it's still
a long way from being sanitised and overdeveloped. Bananas are still
bigger business than tourism in this archetypal island paradise.
Much of the island is rural: small coastal fishing villages give
way to a hinterland of banana and coconut plantations folded within
deep valleys topped by rich, mountainous jungle. The rugged terrain
continues beneath the sea in a diving heaven of underwater mountains,
caves and drop-offs.
Its most dramatic scenery is in the south, where the twin volcanic
peaks of the Pitons rise sharply from the shoreline to form distinctive
landmarks. The coastline is pocketed with secluded coves and beaches
made for one (or, naturally, at sunset, for two).
Full country name: Saint Lucia
Area: 616 sq km
Population: 156,260
Capital City: Castries
People: African (90%), mixed descent (6%), European and East
Indian (4%)
Language: English
Religion: Roman Catholic (90%), Protestant (7%), Anglican
(3%)
Government: independent republic within the British Commonwealth
Head of State: Governor General Dame Pearlette Louisy
Head of Government: Prime Minister Kenny Anthony
GDP: US$656 million
GDP per capita: US$4,300
Annual Growth: 2.9%
Major Industries: Bananas, coconuts, cocoa, assembly of electronic
components, clothing, tourism.
Major Trading Partners: USA, Caricom (Caribbean community)
countries, UK, Japan, Canada
Facts for the Traveler
Visas: Citizens of the USA and Canada can enter St Lucia with proof
of citizenship and a photo ID. French citizens can enter with a
national identity card. Citizens of the UK, Australia and most other
countries must be in possession of a valid passport. For all foreign
visitors, stays of over 28 days generally require a visa and an
onward or roundtrip ticket or proof of sufficient funds.
Health risks: schistosomiasis (bilharzia) (Bilharzia (schistosomiasis)
is endemic to St Lucia; the general precaution is to avoid wading
or swimming in freshwater)
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -4 (Atlantic Time)
Electricity: 240V ,50Hz
Weights & measures: Imperial
When to Go
The western shores of St Lucia are a mighty fine place to be from
February to April when the rain eases off a bit. At this time you
can expect daily highs around the 29°C (84°F) mark with conditions
getting a bit hotter but much wetter during the rest of the year.
Events
From the costume parades of Carnival to the bright spinnakers of 150
yachts sailing into Rodney Bay at the end of the Atlantic Rally yacht
race, festivals add a splash of colour to St Lucia's lush green background.
Carnival takes place on the two days before Ash Wednesday, usually
some time in February or March. It's celebrated with calypso music,
costumed parades and band competitions. The biggest musical event
of the year is the four-day St Lucian Jazz Festival held in mid-May.
It often features international stars such as Herbie Hancock, Chaka
Khan and Chuck Mangione. The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, a giant
transatlantic yacht race, ends at Rodney Bay Marina in December. About
150 boats manage to reach St Lucia from the starting line in the Canary
Islands.
St Lucian public holidays are: New Year's Day and New Year's Holiday
on the first two days in January; Independence Day on 22 February;
Good Friday and Easter Monday in late March or early April; Whit Monday
on the eighth Monday after Easter and Corpus Christi on the ninth
Thursday after Easter; Emancipation Day on 3 August; Thanksgiving
on 5 October; National Day on 13 December, and Christmas and Boxing
Day on the 25th and 26th of December.
Money & Costs
- Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar
Meals
- Budget: EC$8-25
- Mid-range: EC$25-80
- High: EC$80+
Lodging
- Budget: EC$80-160
- Mid-range: EC$160-300
- High: EC$300+
St Lucia is a fairly expensive destination since most hotels and resorts
are of the all-inclusive variety, giving travellers less choice when
it comes to finding alternative food and entertainment. If you're
travelling independently, moderate accommodations options are available,
and you could easily stay in a guesthouse, eat fairly well, hire a
car occasionally and explore the island on around 320 a day.
US dollar traveller's cheques are the most convenient to exchange
into the local currency, but Canadian dollars and UK sterling traveller's
cheques can also be changed without difficulty. Visa, MasterCard and
American Express are the most widely accepted credit cards and can
be used for car rentals and at most mid-range and top-end restaurants
and hotels. There are ATMs in Castries and Rodney Bay.
An 8% tax and a 10% service charge are added onto the bill at all
but the cheapest hotels and restaurants; there's no need for an additional
tip.
Attractions
Castries
Castries, the island's commercial centre and capital, is a busy port
city set on a large natural harbour. The liveliest part of the city
is just southeast of the port, at Jeremie and Peynier Sts, where the
Castries Market houses scores of produce and handicraft stalls. Founded
by the French in the 18th century, the city was ravaged by fire three
times between 1785 and 1812, and again in 1948. Consequently most
of the city's historic buildings have been lost. One area that survived
the last fire was Derek Walcott Square, a quiet central square surrounded
by a handful of 19th-century wooden buildings with gingerbread-trim
balconies, an attractive Victorian-style library and the imposing
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Opposite the cathedral, on
the eastern side of the square, is a lofty saman tree that's estimated
to be 400 years old.
Marigot
Bay
Marigot Bay is a lovely sheltered bay that's backed by green hillsides
and sports a little palm-fringed beach. The inner harbour is so
long and deep that an entire British fleet is said to have once
escaped French warships by ducking inside and covering their masts
with coconut fronds. The bay was the setting for the 1967 musical
Doctor Dolittle, starring Rex Harrison.
Marigot Bay is a popular anchorage for yachters and the site of
a marina with a customs office, a small market, water, ice and fuel.
Pigeon Island National Park
Pigeon Island is more a historical monument than a nature reserve,
with ruins dating from the mid-1700s, including a fortress, barracks
and some rusting cannons. The grounds are well endowed with lofty
trees, including a few big banyans, and there's fine views of the
coast and nearby Martinique.
The island has a spicy history dating back to the 1550s when St
Lucia's first French settler, Jambe de Bois ('Wooden Leg'), used
it as a base for raiding passing Spanish ships. Two centuries later
British admiral George Rodney fortified the island, using it to
monitor the French fleet on Martinique. With the end of hostilities
between the two European rivals, the fort slipped into disuse in
the 19th century, although the USA established a small signal station
there during WWII.
Rodney Bay
Rodney Bay is a large protected bay that encompasses the resort
area of Reduit Beach and the small fishing village of Gros Islet.
An artificial channel cuts between the two areas, opening to a large
lagoon that's the site of Rodney Bay Marina, the island's largest
yachting port. The marina is a good place to make contact with sailors
if you're looking to hitch a ride or find a crew job.
Gros Islet consists of simple wooden houses with rusting tin roofs,
lots of rum shops and a shore full of painted wooden boats. If you
hear a conch shell being blown, it's the signal that fishing boats
have arrived with catch to sell. Though the town doesn't have many
sights per se, St Joseph's Church is a formidable structure at the
northern edge of town, and there's a small market near the shore
where you can often find fishers mending nets. Gros Islet is also
famous for its spirited Friday night 'jump-up'.
Soufrière
The bayside town of Soufrière was founded by the French in
1746 and named after nearby sulphur springs. The coastal Pitons
provide a scenic backdrop to the south and the island's highest
peaks rise above the rainforest just a few miles inland. Like other
fishing communities along the coast, Soufrière has lots of
old weathered buildings: some still adorned with delicate trim,
others more ramshackle. There's an interesting stone Catholic church
in the town centre. On the northern side of the dock is the Soufrière
Market, where you can buy baskets, straw hats and spices. Although
most visitors to Soufrière daytrip on tours, the town's relaxed
provincial character is really only appreciated by those who stay
overnight. There are some interesting places to stay, ranging from
moderate guesthouses to secluded top-end retreats.
Maria Islands Nature Reserve
These tiny islands are the only habitat of the kouwes snake, one
of the world's rarest grass snakes, and the Maria Islands ground
lizard. A sanctuary for seabirds, it's closed during the summer
nesting season, but it can be visited at other times on tours arranged
by the St Lucia National Trust.
Sulphur Springs
Sulphur Springs is a barren terrain pocked with pools of boiling
mud and steaming vents. The vents release great quantities of sulphuric
gases, which are responsible for the yellow mineral deposits blanketing
the area. The putrid smell, similar to rotten eggs, is hydrogen
sulphide. Visitors used to walk up close to the vents and peer directly
into the mud ponds until a local guide leading a group of German
tourists stepped through the soft earth and plunged waist-deep into
boiling mud. He lived to tell the tale, but everything is now viewed
from the safety of overlooks. Despite the fact that this area is
promoted as a 'drive-in volcano,' those expecting to peer down into
a volcanic crater will be disappointed. The crater walls eroded
away eons ago, and now the volcanic activity is along the side of
a hill.
Vieux Fort
Vieux Fort, St Lucia's southernmost town, would be beyond the itinerary
of most visitors if it wasn't the site of the island's international
airport, which is just north of the town centre. The town has a
mix of older wooden buildings and newer structures as well as the
island's second-largest port. If you're overnighting here before
a flight, check out the white-sand beaches at the east side of town.
There's a lighthouse atop a 730-foot hill on Moule à Chique,
the island's southernmost point, which offers a view of the Maria
Islands, St Lucia's interior mountains and, if the weather's clear,
the island of St Vincent to the south.
Activities
Despite the island's
resort infrastructure, all of St Lucia's beaches are public. There
are fine swathes of sand and good swimming on the touristy northwestern
coast between Gros Islet and Pigeon Point, and at Choc Beach and Reduit
Beach. The southwestern coast has plenty of secret coves and bays,
but many are accessible only by boat. The Vieux Fort area, at the
southern tip of the island, and Cas-en-Bas, on St Lucia's northeastern
coast, are popular with experienced windsurfers.
St Lucia's rugged mountain terrain continues beneath the sea as underwater
mounts, caves and drop-offs. Most of the diving takes place on the
western side of the island since the east is less protected and has
rougher water conditions. Anse Chastanet, just north of Soufrière,
has been designated as a marine park and boasts near-shore reefs with
a wide variety of corals, sponges and reef fish. Its accessibility
makes it excellent for both diving and snorkelling. A popular dive
spot further south is Key Hole Pinnacles, where coral-encrusted underwater
mounts rise to within a metre of the surface. Another interesting
option is the artificial reef that has formed around the 50m (165ft)
freighter, the Lesleen, which was deliberately sunk in 20m (65ft)
of water at Anse Cochon. Other good snorkelling and diving spots include
the area beneath Petit Piton and Gros Piton, the coastal mountains
that loom to the south of Soufrière and Pigeon Island in the
main resort area north of Castries.
The three main hiking trails heading into the mountainous interior
on public lands are administered by the Department of Forest &
Lands. The three-hour return trip to the top of the 434m (1446ft)
Morne la Cam on the accessible Barre de L'isle Trail follows the ridge
that divides the eastern and western halves of St Lucia. The Des Cartiers
Rainforest Trail at the Quilesse Forest Reserve passes through the
habitat of the rare St Lucia parrot. The Edmund Forest Reserve Trail
negotiates a rainforest interlaced with orchids and bromelaids and
offers a view of St Lucia's highest peak, the 935m (3118ft) Mt Gimie.
Most hikers negotiate the latter two trails as part of an organised
walk because the trail markers can be difficult to find.
History
Archaeological
finds on the island indicate that St Lucia was settled by Arawaks
between 1000 and 500 BC. Around 800 AD migrating Caribs conquered
the Arawaks and established permanent settlements on the island.
St Lucia was outside the routes taken by Columbus on his four visits
to the New World and was probably first sighted by Spanish explorers
during the early 1500s. The first attempt at European colonisation
wasn't made until 1605, when a party of English settlers was quickly
routed by unreceptive Caribs. A second attempt by British colonists
from St Kitts was made in 1638, but the settlement was abandoned
within two years after most of the settlers were killed in attacks.
After the British left, the French laid claim to the island and
attempted to reach an agreement with the Caribs. In 1746, the French
established the island's first town, Soufrière, and began
developing plantations. The British successfully invaded in 1778
and established naval bases at Gros Islet and Pigeon Island, which
they used as staging grounds for attacks on the French islands to
the north. St Lucia seesawed between the British and the French
until 1814, when the Treaty of Paris finally ceded the island to
the British, ending 150 years of conflict during which St Lucia
had changed flags 14 times. Culturally the British were slow in
replacing French customs and it wasn't until 1842 that English nudged
out French as St Lucia's official language.
Other customs linger to this day: the majority of locals speak a
French-based patois, attend Catholic churches and live in villages
with French names. St Lucia gained internal autonomy in 1967 and
full independence, as a member of the British Commonwealth, in 1979.
The birth of the tiny country was not all smooth sailing, however.
The St Lucia Labour Party (SLP) government,led by John Compton,
was rocked by resignations in 1981, so that by 1982 its grip on
power was weak. The impasse was aggravated by strikes and demonstrations
leading to the collapse of the government in January of that year.
John Compton and the SLP were back in power in 1987, still committed
to their stated ambition of union with the neighbouring islands
of Grenada, Saint Vincent and Dominica. By the mid-1990s, a crisis
in the banana industry over trade with the European Union had damaged
the island's economy and unemployment was reported to be hovering
at around 30%. Governments since have intensified efforts to reform
and diversify the economy.
Since then, tourism has boomed, and construction of resorts has
not always followed environmentally sound guidelines. One of the
newest resorts was shamelessly built smack between the twin Pitons,
which have always stood as the symbol of the island's unspoiled
natural character. Prior to the construction, many islanders had
hoped the land would be set aside for a new national park.
Environment
St Lucia is teardrop-shaped, roughly 44km (27mi) in length and 23km
(14mi) in width. The interior is largely mountainous, reaching its
highest point at the 950m (3120ft) Mt Gimie in the southwest. Deep
valleys, many of which are planted with bananas and coconuts, reach
down from the mountains.
The Soufrière area has the island's best-known geological
features: the twin volcanic cones of the Pitons, which rise up some
760m (2500ft) from the shoreline, and the hot bubbling Sulphur Springs
just inland from the town.
St Lucia's vegetation ranges from dry and scrubby areas of cacti
and hibiscus to lush jungly valleys with wild orchids, bromeliads,
heliconia and lianas. Under the British colonial administration
much of St Lucia's rainforest was targeted for timber harvesting.
In many ways the independent St Lucian government has proved a far
more effective environmental force, and although only about 10%
of the island remains covered in rainforest, most of it has now
been set aside as nature reserve. The largest indigenous trees in
the rainforest are the gommier, a towering gumtree, and the chatagnier,
a huge buttress-trunked tree.
Island fauna includes the St Lucia parrot, St Lucian oriole, purple-throated
Carib hummingbird, bats, lizards, iguana, tree frogs, introduced
mongoose, the rabbit-like agouti and several snake species, including
the venomous fer-de-lance and the boa constrictor. It's illegal
to damage, collect, buy or sell any type of coral on St Lucia and
nothing should be removed from any of the island's many marine reserves.
In January the average daily high temperature in Castries is 27°C
(81°F), while the low averages 20°C (68°F). In July
the average daily high is 29°C (85°F), while the low averages
22°C (72°F). Rainfall is much heavier in the mountains.
In Castries, measurable rain falls an average of 11 days a month
from January to March, the driest months. The rainiest months, June
to December, have an average of 18 days of rain.
Getting There & Away
L'Express des Iles operates an express catamaran between Castries
and Fort-de-France in Martinique. If you come in by yacht you can
clear customs and immigration at Rodney Bay, Castries, Vieux Fort
and Marigot Bay. Marigot Bay is the easiest place to clear the bureaucracy
because you can anchor in the inner harbour and dinghy over to the
customs office. Cruise ships dock in Castries Harbour.
St Lucia has two airports: Hewanorra International Airport in Vieux
Fort, at the remote southern tip of the island, and Vigie Airport
in Castries, near the main tourist area. International flights land
at Hewanorra, while flights from within the Caribbean generally
land at Vigie. Most visitors will find it more convenient to book
a flight into Vigie. You can fly direct to St Lucia from New York,
Miami, Toronto and London.
The Caribbean's major inter-island carrier, LIAT, has flights between
St Lucia and Caracas as well as daily nonstop flights to Vigie Airport
from Antigua, Barbados, Dominica, Martinique, St Vincent and Trinidad
and connecting flights from the rest of LIAT's Caribbean network.
Air passengers leaving St Lucia pay an 27 departure tax.
Getting Around
St Lucia is only 44km (27mi) in length and 23km (14mi) in width, so
it doesn't take long to get to most places on the island. Most islanders
use the cheap minivan bus service to get to town, school or work.
Services are frequent on main routes (such as Castries to Gros Islet)
during the day, but getting a bus after dark can be challenging. Very
few buses run on Sunday. If there's no bus stop nearby, you can wave
buses down en route as long as there's space for the bus to pull over.
Taxis are plentiful at the airports, in Castries and in the main resort
areas. Always establish the fare with the driver before you get in,
doubly so if you want to do anything 'unusual', like stopping to see
a view.
There are car rental agencies at the airports and at Rodney Bay. Unless
you have an International Driving Permit, you'll need to purchase
a local license, which can be picked up from immigration at both Hewanorra
International Airport and Vigie Airport. If you don't get a license
on arrival, most car rental companies will either issue one or take
you to a nearby police station to get one. Remember to drive on the
left.
Further Reading
- To Windward of the Land: The Occult World of Alexander Charles by
Jane C Beck: This book focuses in on one of the island's more idiosyncratic
characters.
- The Nature of the Islands: Plants & Animals of the Eastern Caribbean
by Virginia Barlow: The best overall guide to the region's flora and
fauna.
- The Bounty by Derek Walcott: A novel recounting the fate of the
Bounty
- Collected Poems, 1948-1984 by Derek Walcott: An anthology by St
Lucia's favourite son and Nobel prize winner.
- Outlines of St. Lucia's History by Charles Jesse: A slim overview
of the island's history up to the 1960s. |